I TRIED, & FAILED, AT MINIMALIST DRESSING

Last year my fashion proclivities morphed into something more minimalist. Fashion decisions became more considered, and whereas previously my ethos was to only buy what I loved; now, it was to buy only what I needed. To invest in quality over trends. It was a paring back of my stylistic impulses, in a bid to be more thoughtful in my buys and avoid waste (as much as for my bank balance as for the environment).

Having already expounded upon the virtues of the white t-shirt, black trousers and most recently, the common vest, my wonts became predicated solely by practicality. For some time I enjoyed the ease at which this enabled me to get dressed. There was no deciphering what made sense, items had an inherent synchronicity. White t-shirt, blue jeans and black jumper, or black t-shirt, black jeans and camel jumper. The only thing differentiating one day's look from another was a slight variation in colour and swapping between accessories. 

Whilst on a five day trip with nothing but my carry-on as companion, I employed this means of dressing to much self-congratulation. Due to space limitation, superfluous clothing was not possible, instead items mandated multi-purpose capabilities. For this five day trial period, staple pieces aided in quick transitions between adventures. Come in from a long day of exploring, wash, change, head out for the evening, bed, sleep, wake and do it all over again. Getting dressed was a necessity not a priority and thus the accidental minimalism began. 

Soon my fascination with minimalism spread to my instagram perusal too as I favoured more minimalist accounts (see Tar Mar, RosieHW and Matilda Djerf). Getting dressed was done with my eyes closed, which is not meant as a brag, more a consequence of complete boredom. Colour palettes were neutral, style was simplistic and cuts were classic. I was trendless, I was perfectly put together and I was stylistically stunted. There was no frantic flinging of clothing, squeezing into one thing, only to shimmy out of another. Instead, getting dressed was just a necessary mundanity. The excitement and frustration was no more. 

The act of clothing myself had been cathartic, a preparation of body and mind before interacting with the real world. It allowed me to present an image curated at the behest of however I may have felt at any given time. The definition of minimalism suggests a moderate approach to dressing and dogged commitment to essentials and in adopting this, my wears had been whittled down to that of a uniform. The unexpected inspiration that often comes from no where and everywhere, no longer affected my proclivities. The formula was set and through the motions I went...

It wasn't until I discovered Maren Schia that my monotone dressing came into focus. I was inspired by her matryoshka layers, commitment to colour and unexpected silhouettes. It was 'out there' enough to be considered aspirational, but relatable enough that one felt could be recaptured. Classic pieces were featured but they were paired unexpectedly, colours were clashed and prints were the antithesis of boring. 

I quickly realised that whilst figuring out minimalism, the purpose of staples had become obfuscated. They were pieces to be worn over and over again, they were often overlooked and they could be considered boring, but they were pertinent to a well-rounded wardrobe and were often the saviour of many a snoozed alarm. What began as an exercise in upgrading the quality of my current staples, unknowingly became a quest to reach the illusive status of chic, an aesthetic that I admire, but is not comfortably my own.

Though a whole outfit of basics is functional and some days do warrant easy, thoughtless dressing; not having that visual stimulus nurtured a feeling of bland within me. The epiphany made me realise that part of the function of staple pieces are their ability to provide a practical foundation on which can be built whatever the wearer desires: minimalist, maximalist and in between. A white t-shirt is only as exciting as the wearer and as such, only as boring. The key pieces from my time as a rookie minimalist will forever remain key pieces. However, now they will be the backdrop to offset whatever statement I intend to wear, and make. Consider it maximising your minimalist wears. 

(Photos via: Unknown, @matildadjerf, @tarmarz & @marenschia)

THE VEST: A GUIDE TO EMBRACING THE BASICS

Basics have garnered a bit of a bad rep. They are in essence basic.  

Though there was an upturn in popularity during the 2014 advent of Normcore, when fashion became overwhelmed by swathes of beige and Stan Smiths. The season was a palette cleanser and whilst 'Normcore' has phased out of the zeitgeist, the essence of minimalism has remained under the catchy moniker, 'basic bitch'. The term 'basic bitch' connotes unremarkable style and an embracement of sameness, though it must be said that the fundamentals of many a must-have wardrobe are founded upon basics. 

It was whilst ruminating over my own wardrobe that I began to reconsider the significance of basics to my own style. Having already mused over the perfect white t-shirt (FYI see M&S) and my newfound proclivity for black trousers; I turned my focus to the most basic of basics - the vest. Previously I had never considered the vest a necessity. They were undergarments to be worn for purposes of modesty (usually under blouses for work) or as an extra layer for warmth.

However, the vest has had a fashionable metamorphosis of late, from the typical attire of gym-goers and holiday-makers, to more modern variations befitting all manner of occasions. There's the classic racer-back, those that feature an almost racer front, those with square necklines, high necklines, spaghetti straps, thick straps, rhinestoned straps, asymmetric straps, multi-straps...

For many, the vest is synonymous with 90s minimalism, Calvin Klein simplicity and Kate Moss circa the Johnny Depp phase. In a slightly different vein, my first pop culture reference of the vest was that of Onslow from the British sitcom 'Keeping Up Appearances'. His character epitomised a lazy lout image, with his particular brand of vest more couch potato than couture. However, the director of Vogue Ukraine, Julie Pelipas wearing a simple tank top to the haute couture shows, shifted my perception of the common vest and informed the dramatic trajectory it would thus take. The very simplicity of her outfit ironically being the thing that stood out amongst all of the paparazzi peacocking.

And it was due to this simplicity that the outfit was both considered impossibly chic and unusually accessible, resulting in its viral appeal and mass recreation. With this in mind, plus my newfound commitment to the essentials (and in spite of the UK now being in deep winter), I continued my search for the perfect vest. I considered it an investment, to be worn whenever the temperature allowed it - which will probably be for two days of freak heatwave come mid-March (hi climate change).

I opted firstly for a ribbed, square necked version from H&M which unfortunately gaped at the underarms. Unless I committed to keeping my arms perennially by my side, (but how would I scroll instagram?) I had to keep searching. I then almost bought a vest from & Other Stories. However, my temptation was thwarted by the very off-putting shipping costs - when postage costs more then two trips to Starbucks, I'm out - sorry not sorry.

I had resigned myself to postponing my search indefinitely, when I wandered into TKmaxx and happened upon a stand designed to play upon the guilt induced by the overindulgence of Christmas; a rack of gym wear. Myself not owning a gym membership or possessing the inclination to go to a gym, almost overlooked the display. That is until I saw the rail of vests.

And these weren't your typical gym vests. There wasn't sight of spandex or a garish colour amongst them all. They were black, high necked and backed, with the slightest racer back shaping and the most tactile of fabrics that implores one to touch. As with all things TKmaxx, prices are low but so too are quantities. I thus bought the two available and skipped out of there to live happily ever after.

In spite of the weather conditions being less than optimum for vest wearing, my vest has surprisingly be worn numerous times (albeit as a foundation piece buried under layers). However, this only aids to emphasise the inherent versatility when one invests in basics. Beach or bar, bed or office and everything in between, be you more Onslow or more fashion director, the common vest is the commonality between all manner of people and places. How refreshing that the conundrum 'to be fashionable or to be practical?' has now been answered by the tiny piece of fabric that is the vest, finally making the question that had plagued us all, a redundant one.

(Phots via : thezoereport.com, manrepeller.com, teenvogue.com, harpersbazaar.com & @matildadjerf instagram)

VICTORIES OF 2019 : MASTERING THE CARRY-ON

Today marks the end of the year; the deep inhale of breath as we exhale 365 days worth of life lived, the peaks, the troughs and the Mondays, only to wake up to a whole new decade. It's hard not to become a little reflexive this time of year and it's important to acknowledge all that has happened, congratulate oneself on the good and learn from the not so good. It was during my own bout of self-reflection that I realised that I had conquered something that had previously escaped me: I had managed a week away with only a carry-on, and a small one at that.

Now the build up to this statement may have been steep and I'm sure some were disappointed by what they perceive to be an easy feat. However, having spoken previously of my struggles with packing, particularly packing for specific occasions and hotter climes, this was an accomplishment. The difference from previous packing attempts was that I decided to think practically, something that all too often alludes me. 

I started with the basics: one pair of black jeans. I opted for straight legged as opposed to skinny for the purpose of comfort, but I must admit that I find the shape far more modern than its drainpiped cousin. Unsure of what the nightlife would behold, I chose a pair of black leather trousers, an easy day to night transitional piece. Shoes; I chose my chunky black and silver Nike Falcon trainers and a pair of black boots with exaggerated silver buckles (because practical but make it fashion). 

I followed up with two plain t-shirts, one grey and one white as just incase filler pieces. Then I packed two long sleeved, polo necked tops, navy and cream and because I needed some quirk to break up the mundanity of all this practicality, I packed a tie-dye blue and orange polo-neck too. I took a black band t-shirt and a black jumper because anything black is a saviour. I decided to take my bright green, Barbour puffer jacket which conveniently rolls into a nifty bag hidden in the pocket - again practical but fun with an exclamation. To round it out I packed a vest (my grandmother's voice echoing the importance of one) and a going out blouse in case we found ourselves somewhere fancy - we didn't.

I travelled in a pair of black trousers, that despite appearing formal (I also wear them to work) have a considerable amount of stretch, making them almost yoga pant-like. I wore the previously mentioned white t-shirt, buckled boots, leather jacket and black jumper slung over my shoulders and took a big black scarf and the most travel-friendly black and gold vintage Moschino cross-body bag. It was probably the chicest I had ever looked at the airport and *almost* most importantly, I was comfortable.

Of course space limitation meant that some items were worn more than once. However, due to the relatively neutral colour palette and each items' versatility, everything was interchangeable and with every new combination, a sense of accomplishment buoyed up inside of me, as I smugly congratulated myself for my apparently limitless ingenuity. The aesthetic was pared back, with the lack of excess refreshing. Each item was chosen with purpose and the subsequent cohesion of all the pieces meant that details came into focus as opposed to vying for attention.

My takeaways from the experiment were that sometimes practicality must be considered, though should not be a stifling factor; a carefully chosen colour palette aids in indecisiveness and is combative for the unknown (i.e changes in weather - pile everything on); unplanned events are navigated with anything black and/or leather for day or night; and two pairs of shoes are advisable due to the eight million steps that are mandatory on all holidays.

I can't say that I adopted this means of dressing once I returned home, alas my restraint is weak. However, for future gallivanting all of the above will be employed. I must add that other milestones have been reached during this year. However, this particular one needed to be documented for future reference. It is also a reminder to commend the little victories as they do so often get eclipsed by the messiness of life. So here's to many many more big and small victories in 2020, may we acknowledge and take heed of them all!  

(Photos via: unknown, style caster.com & the window.barneys.com   

UNLIKELY ICONS : THE BIG BANG THEORY

The 'Big Bang Theory' almost made my head go bang, when late night bingeing turned into sartorial appreciation.

As with most things this time of year, to avoid the bitter cold I sought refuge in the comforting embrace of Netflix. It was after one such headlong binge that I discovered 'The Big Bang Theory' - a programme that I had long associated with past uni days when it was the only respite from the endless stream of 'Friends' nostalgia. It began as easy watching, background noise if you will, yet 12 seasons later I was hooked and it was for reasons most unexpected.  

It was unassuming at first, my focus rested solely upon their off kilter friendships, aptitude for big words and dry witticisms. Of course I noticed their zany outfits. Though initially I saw their worth as a prop to visually signify their general cluelessness to all things other than genius level smarts. 

Actually I'm not quite sure when I noticed the fashion as anything more than a vehicle to promote their brand of 'geekiness'. I can't even say that it was one particular outfit, perhaps it was the immersion of watching back-to-back seasons? Whatever the genesis, once my attention had been piqued, I was fixated and in all honesty, I can't believe I hadn't noticed it sooner.

For those in need of a little more convincing, let's begin with what is perhaps the most striking; colour. Primary colours, all the colours, in one outfit and in all the outfits. As a group they look like Mr Tumble's back-up dancers. However, the brash colours are contagious, perhaps it is the contrast they provide to the bleak weather? or perhaps the festive cheer has finally taken me in? 

Either way the colour is impactful, whether clashed or worn monochromatically. Howard, the most colourful of the quad, favours an arrestingly tonal look. Donning many an untypical hue of skinny trouser, which thus informs the rest of his outfit, often leaving him the personified embodiment of a Crayola. 

In contrast, Raj's outfits are of a subdued palette reminiscent of the AW19 collections, favouring rust, toffee and caramel tones. In one particular episode, Raj wore an argyle jumper, brown corduroy trousers, white ribbed socks and black and white checkered Vans slip ons. A quick flick through instagram and one could be mistaken that I hadn't just listed the wears of every influencer over the past 6 months. 

Pattern, in all manner of rendition is heavily featured; checkered, plaid, the occasional floral. Sometimes worn as shirts, sometimes as knitwear. With Burberry forever making a case for the check and Raj's staple argyle diamond knits seen at Victoria Beckham's AW19 show, it's difficult to ignore where their true smarts lie. Their style is effortless, one might even go so far as to say clueless, but it is undeniably bang on.

With the stark colours and mismatched prints, it's easy to overlook the construction of the outfits, namely the dexterous layering. Sheldon is rarely seen without a long sleeved top peeking out of his t-shirt. Embodying (albeit unknowingly) the recent suffer-vibe embraced by the likes of Proenzer Schouler and Prada. Howard's neck is forever warm in his turtle neck, layered under his selection of 70's inspired western shirts (the 70's being a trend in and of itself - hello, Chloe & Stella McCartney). Whilst Raj favours a knitted vest paired over his extensive collection of vintage shirts. Something similarly seen at Gucci who, it should be known, has long been making geek chic.

As briefly mentioned, corduroy - the fabric of the season - should be elucidated further. In a case of the chicken and the egg, what was once relegated to the stereotypical uniform of academics, is now on the bodies of fashion editors the world over. As academics then, are the Big Bang boys embracing a trend or starting one? Either way, they've garnered fashion acclaim which is on par with a Noble prize, right?

Lastly, you may think that I had forgotten Leonard, but you'd be wrong. His indelible commitment to a military-style jacket is not unnoticed. Favouring to pair khaki with everything - an undeniably smart move. And of course his forever shoe of choice, the Converse, a stalwart for all sartorially savvy. Perhaps the only downfall is Penny's example of noughties bad-taste, which contrarily has also seen its own revival.

They may say that television rots your mind, but amongst the brainiac banter, science-fiction quips and rich fashion underpinnings, I feel smarter already. 

(Photos via : metro.co.uk, stylecaster.com, pinterest, thefashiontag.com, theindependent.co.uk, thefashionspot.com, refinery29.com & tvinsider.com)

THE 411 ON INTERESTING THINGS

As ever, it's been a while and now we're almost at the year's end. However, in amongst this down time, a lot of interesting things have happened and now here we find ourselves. So read on if you like interesting things that are satisfactorily unrelated to the festive period, all succinctly laid out in list form. You're welcome.

Watered Down

Though I offer this list up as respite from the ho-ho-ho-dom of Christmas time, this first one does allude to the season of abundance, but rest assured it doesn't involve redeeming your indulgence wholly. It's merely a handy reminder not only to drink water, but tips on how to easily include the wet stuff into your routine. Think of it as a counterbalance to the yule log you're about to inhale. This is the time to be merry after all, so eat and party on as much as you desire, but remember to take a sip of water in between swigs of fun. 

Life in looks

The no holds barred sensibilities of social media encourage an inquisitiveness that beforehand couldn't satisfied. However, now we can literally see what people eat, keep in their handbag, where they holiday, where they live... Personally, my curiosity lies, as ever, with the fashion. And the clever people over at Vogue have capitalised on this sartorial nosiness, gathering the memorable looks of icons throughout the decades. Having them explain the who, what, when and why of their most infamous looks. Personal favourites include Cher (because Cher!) and Kim K West (because who doesn't love a throwback to Kim pre Yeezy closet clear out). 

Lizzie McGuire 3.0

OMG! I feel like what else is there to be said. Fifteen years later, Lizzie is back and rest assured, so is her little alter ego, espousing her inner most thoughts, this time around as a 30-something living in Brooklyn. Details are scarce, though promotional pictures have been void of the mid-noughties hairstyles that involved much crimping and fluro coloured extensions - phew! Best pal Gordo and the McGuire family are all also set to return and the rest I guess "we'll figure out on the way" - if you know you know ;)

Optimising Happiness - A How To

During the festive period, there is an unspoken pressure to have it all, buy it all and do it all. And while you're doing all of this, you're supposed to be happy about it. But what is true happiness? Often it's based off of selfish motivations and whilst the immediate reaction may be one of positivity, it is often fleeting. To help navigate this season of good will and to make sure you're doing happiness right, read here.

A Sustainable Christmas

Needless to say, I have been doing a lot of shopping, mostly for others, although I'd be lying if I said that a few selfish purchases hadn't crept into my shopping bag... However, in my quest to be more thrifty with my spends (see here & here) I stumbled upon Vestiaire collective; a resale website that specialises in facilitating the safe sale and authentication of designer goods. And whilst I'm here, don't forget about the old favourite Ebay and -thanks to Stacey Dooley- By Rotation Collective, a peer-to-peer fashion rental app, built upon the mantra "rent what you need and lend what you don't". It is the time of giving after all, so why not give back to the environment.

(Photos via: @lucywilliams02, video.vogue.com, youtube.com, vogue.com & chathamhouse.org)

BLACK TROUSERS: THE WORKWEAR STAPLE THAT JUST GOT COOL

Black trousers: an item almost too basic to be considered with any significance; mostly relegated to the realms of workwear and thus, despite being a guaranteed item in every wardrobe, oft overlooked. 

Until recently, the black trouser had mandatorily factored into my life namely as uniforms of mundanity (school and work) and occasions of solemnity (interviews and funerals). They were an item discarded as soon as their purpose had been fulfilled. A means to an end and nothing more. However, with the advent of my 28th birthday, a shift in proclivity occurred. 

Though I think ageing is a contributing factor to this, the collective shift in consciousness surrounding fashion's environmental impact is inescapable. An effort to educate the consumer is of priority. Being aware of where an item came from, how it were made and the implications of purchases (particularly fast fashion choices), is of vital importance in a bid to stop the damage done before it becomes irreparable. 

Interrogation of purchases is vital, as laissez faire shopping not only leads to unnecessary buys but also unnecessary environmental damage. There was once a time when the determining factor of any purchase, was whether I loved it or not. However, in the burgeoning climate of fashion woke-ness, I decided that longevity was a priority to be factored into every and all consideration. Investing in pieces that I may have previously scrimped on as a means of avoiding unnecessary waste. Though I must add that expense is not the only determining factor, as I aim to live by the mantra reuse and recycle (this transcending from my fashion choices to my life choices). Namely I seek to invest in quality pieces, browsing eBay and second-hand stores for items to be worn time and time again, vice making spur of the moment choices at Zara and the like. I intend to live a life in these items, rather than just to wear out a trend until its trendiness fades from the collective consciousness and we're on to the next.

To begin, I looked at those forgotten pieces. The items worn daily without consideration or thought. Those that are nothing in themselves, but are pivotal to the act of getting dressed. For some those pieces may include the perfect white t-shirt, or well executed blazer. For me it began with the black trousers. I too am shocked by these being my genesis of change. 

Though I have always owned a pair of black trousers, garnering varying amounts of wear throughout the years, they have never been a staple. More a necessity based on obligation. Previously they spoke of practicality and utilitarianism, a lack of individualism to befit the mould of whatever establishment I worked for. However, recently they have come to be one of the most well worn items in my wardrobe, by choice.

As with anything black in colour, black trousers go with everything and are thus translatable to any occasion. Unlike black jeans, that tend to endow an outfit with casual, black trousers elevate a look with sophistication. And thus the formula for dressing black trousers is infinite. Fashioned in its more traditional setting of workwear, black trousers are a classic foundation. Yet inverting the typical, black trousers can be updated with a pair of chunky trainers and teeny handbag, in what has become this year's fashion girl uniform. Or styled in simplicity, paired with a crew neck and tennis shoes, black trousers create a casually chic look that can be further adapted to befit a conference (add a blazer), a coffee date (add a bomber) or the club (add gold jewellery).    

And to further espouse the myriad ways of the black trouser, it's worth noting that there is not just one black trouser. Rather the styles are numerous; flared, straight, cropped, slit up the front, flecked, pinstriped. It was one such '& Other Stories' iteration that made me realise the black trouser as a stalwart of my personal style. For a whole week, I wore them everyday, from work straight through to the weekend and it wasn't boredom that made me retire them, rather a need to clean them. An essential annoyance which cemented the black trouser as the most necessary basic I own. 

And there endeth my rumination on the black trouser. What is perhaps the most boring of basics to ever excite your wardrobe. The black trousers are what you always had but never knew you needed to live a full and fashionable life. Plus they don't stain easily, so they may just be the most stylishly practical piece hidden at the back of your wardrobe.

(Photos via : becausestreetwear.com, glittering.com & pinterest.com)

THE LARGE PROBLEM WITH TEENY TINY BAGS

There are very few things that are better smaller. Case in point the ever shrinking size of chocolate bars. And unless perhaps the working week could be made smaller, diminutive usually connotes disappointment. Yet, as ever, fashion is at odds with practical thought.

Recently, there have been a slew of miniature accoutrements being the accessories of choice by many an influencer/celeb. Much like the Balenciaga multi hyphenate duvet/coat; the teeny bag of Jacquemus is gaining the same traction due to the shared impracticality of both. The functionality of the pieces are totally inverted, one being so enlarged as to make it unwearable in most circumstances, and the other so minute as to make its very purpose (i.e to carry ones possessions around) an impossibility.

As ever, fashion is ironic. And what could be more subversive then a bag smaller than a child's pocket? For many women a bag of some sort is an absolute necessity. Allowing one to tote around whatever deemed essential to the survival of one's day. In a world of filters and 'I woke up like this' perfection, being able to carry around the requirements to freshen up throughout the day is a great comfort. No one can deny the relief felt when a panicked fumble reveals the very thing needed to avert potential and absolute disaster.

And being able to present things to appease someone else's nightmare, is the stuff great friendships are built on. Let us not forget one of the great lessons taught us by SATC, as Carrie guarantees herself entrance into the current 'it' spot in exchange for providing the hostess, i.e 'the most powerful woman in Manhattan' with a tampon. Alas, the golden ticket to soaring social status lay at the bottom of her bag.

Social standing aside, there does appear to be a historical/cultural/stereotypical expectation of women and their instinctual preparedness to combat all manner of daily mishaps. There is an assumed ingenuity to women, that the ability to carry stuffs around aids in upholding the idea of. Unexpected rain shower - umbrella needed; new shoes - plasters stat; summer cold - tissues and that old packet of Lemsip; popped button - safety pin; rip or tear - small sewing kit; the list is endless and exhaustive. It is a feat requiring the multi-tasking capabilities of an octopus and the survival skills of Bear Grylls.   

Just the very convenience of having ones possessions to hand is a comfort most would be reluctant to forgo. However, also to most a seemingly pointless handbag wouldn't incur such a tangent. I myself am surprised with the trajectory this post has taken. Yet I can't shake the feeling that a handbag hardly big enough to house air pods, is endemic of a society enthralled by non-existent perfection.

Of course this theory is reliant on the thought that stuff is required to maintain ones day. Whether that be to maintain one's physical appearance, whether it be lunch prepared the night before, or a book for escapism. This teeny bag smooths the edges of what it means to be a functioning human. It is the equivalent of those who commute in trainers and don heels once entering the office. It is a daily mundanity hidden as a means of maintaining a particular facade. The teeny bag is similar, hiding the fact that life is messy and problematic and often requires stuff to resolve and restore normality. 

Without the ability to carry basic necessities and those non-necessities, one is left with a purely ornamental, non functional accessory. And whilst freeing (quite literally as one can go hands-free) the comfort of stuff is negated completely and replaced by the purely aesthetic. The redundancy of function upholds the unrealistic ideals of 'I woke up like this and walked out the door in only the clothes on my back' perfection. Something capitalised on by the Kardashian/Jenner clan who coincidentally have zealously supported the teeny bag, what with it being in sync with their particular brand of unattainable perfection.

The teeny bag is an assertion of carefree and the price (especially when considered in terms of actual square meterage) is a mascot of riches. Myself being without a specific bag-carrier to facilitate this fad bag, plus my commitment to toting around all the stuff and an unwillingness to forfeit payment of my bills, I choose to retain the comfort offered by an actual human scale bag. So I guess I was wrong. This teeny bag doesn't just have the capacity to house air pods, it holds a myriad of problems too.
  

(Images via : cools.com, harpersbazaar.com, purseblog.com & humourandstyle.com)