Friday 13 February 2015

THE SEASONAL SHIFT

Just when the looks of spring/summer 15 are actually seeming almost wearable, fashion month sneaks up and the focus shifts to autumn/winter 15. Yes it's cyclical but my gosh, sometimes it feels like the spinning wheel on a game show, flying at such a rapid speed as to leave one dumbfounded and as helpless as a gambler watching the roulette wheel in anticipation. 
(Brights are where it's at, according to Burberry Prorsum SS15 that is)

Though I wouldn't like to hedge my bets by predicting what may or may not appear for the upcoming season ahead, I thought a recap of  SS15 would be well, just fun for me to write - a purely selfish exercise really. After all, no one would blame you for getting slightly confused as to what season we're in, what season is to come and what season we're currently awaiting, heck it might even be a handy reminder as to what year it is! So here goes, my round up of what was shown last year, in anticipation for this year. 
(There certainly ain't no bells and whistles with these shoes, except, er, for the bell detailing...) 

Celine, the house that pioneered the normcore look, that was emulated by every fashion-y person, - perhaps apart from Anna Dello Russo and Iris Apfel - during 2014, is striving to make the 'ugly', fashionable. This season the birkenstock and the Stan Smith trainers were ousted in favour of orthopaedic, elasticated shoes. Short of embracing the croc, I can't think of anything less aesthetically pleasing.  
(SS15 at Saint Laurent was like a round up of all the 70's hits)

Saint Laurent was by far my favourite. A heady mix of 70's rock 'n' roll, miniature hemlines, plunging cleavage and a cool girl mix of leopard and red, oh and a dose of suede for good measure. I need a platform shoe, stat!
(Hippie Princess/Super woman hybrid at Valentino SS15)

Valentino channelled it's inner hippie, with an ethereal collection of folkloric floor-length dresses, broderie anglaise shift dresses and flowers blossoming among tiers of fabric, all paired with a subtle gladiator sandal. 
(Dark romanticism strode down the runway at Erdem SS15)

Erdem must have got the memo, as they too embraced the sublime, albeit in a far moodier, tangible sense. Models appeared as fairies hiding in the woods and were outfitted in lattice-laced gladiator sandals. I sense that a trend is a-coming.
(Frayed denim, patchwork suede, brocade, oriental silk, leather... the only thing missing was the kitchen sink at Prada SS15)

Prada was a homage to the decade championed this season by all, yep, you guessed it, the 1970s. Miuccia made a case for the platform, clog shoe and the sock/sandal combination - as did Jil Sander.  
(Yes, that is Karlie Kloss under there)

It wasn't the most memorable show for Marc Jacobs with regards to the fashion. The models - sans makeup - looking like an army of porcelain dolls, walking around a ginormous pink house, was more noteworthy than the utility garb that they we bedecked in - though that does promise to be a big trend too. 
(Making a case for 'mellow-yellow' over at Chloe SS15)

Chloe and Dior might have just converted me over to the yellow side of life - a colour I have a severe aversion towards. The key, it seems, is to go all out in monotone, accessorised with washed out denim and bohemian tousled waves a la Chloe, or paired with pale pink and striking black like the futuristic looks of Dior. 
(Convict stripes never looked so good)

Givenchy embraced a palette of blush tones and rose gold, offset with rivet-studded detailing, beetlejuice-esque stripes and thigh high ghillies. Nothing like the showgirl costume worn by Madonna to the Grammys I might add!
(Statment making: joining the cause or jumping on the zeitgeist?)

I've already mentioned the collections shown at Comme Des Garçons and Junya Watanabe here; blue is it at Emporio Armani; Balenciaga was futuristic; Chanel held a contentious protest march, and Burberry Prorsum is still breathing new life into the stalwart trench coat, with the addition of the shrunken denim jacket and layers upon layers of tulle. 

And that's it, wasn't that fun? Now get ready for the new slew of designs all yet to be shown, dissected and on a highstreet near you.  

(Images via: dailymail.co.uk & vogue.com)

No comments:

Post a Comment